by Rich Ensor

Once upon a time, I spied a skein of Bugga! at fibre space, and I had to have it. That skein spent some time in my stash before I finally decided to cast on. Since I have a weakness for twisted stitches and cables, I started playing around and developed a stitch pattern that forms diamonds. Diamonds can be found in alluvial deposits, hence the name (yes, I’m a dork).

The pattern is mirrored, which helps to combat the dreaded second sock syndrome. The beginning of the round shifts, so you’ll need to pay attention.

Sadly, the skein of Bugga! is no longer available. Fortunately, there are a lot of great options in either a solid or semi-solid yarn that would work with this pattern. Miss Babs Yummy springs to mind. Hazel Knits Piquant Lite and Neighborhood Fiber Company Studio Socks are some other great choices. Since gauge can vary when switching bases, I’ve provided the pattern in 4 sizes to accommodate your yarn selection.

Abbreviations

k – Knit.

k tbl – Knit through the back loop.

k2tog – Knit 2 stitches together.

p – Purl.

p2tog – Purl 2 stitches together.

RS – Right side.

sl – Slip 1 stitch purlwise.

ssk – Slip one stitch knitwise, then slip the next stitch knitwise. Insert left needle into the front loops of the slipped stitches and knit them together from this position (through the back loops).

WS – Wrong Side

wyif – With yarn held in front of work.

wyib – With yarn held in back of work.

1/1 LPT – Place one stitch from left needle on a cable needle and hold to front of work. Purl the next stitch from the left needle. Knit the stitch on the cable needle through the back loop.

1/1 LT – Place one stitch from left needle on a cable needle and hold to front of work. Knit the next stitch from the left needle through the back loop. Knit the stitch on the cable needle through the back loop.
1/1 RPT – Place one stitch from left needle on a cable needle and hold to back of work. Knit the next stitch from the left needle through the back loop. Purl the stitch on the cable needle.
1/1 RT – Place one stitch from the left needle on a cable needle and hold to back of work. Knit the next stitch from the left needle through the back loop. Knit the stitch on the cable needle through the back loop.

Size

S(M, L, XL), 7(8, 9, 10)” circumference (in pattern slightly stretched). Leg length and foot length are customizable.

Gauge

8 stitches and 10 rows = 1” in stockinette stitch on US size 1 needles

Materials:

• US size 1.5 needles appropriate for circular knitting (or size needed to attain gauge)
• Cable needle
• Darning needle
• The Sanguine Gryphon Bugga! [70% superwash merino, 20% cashmere, 10% nylon]; color Tulip Tree Beauty; 4 oz – 412 yards 1 skein (sadly discontinued).

Left Sock

Cuff

Loosely cast on 56(64, 72, 80) stitches. Distribute stitches between needles and join being careful not to twist stitches.

Round: [p1, k1 tbl] 28(32, 36, 40) times.

Repeat round for a total of 15 rounds or until desired length of cuff.

Leg

Work Left Leg Chart 7(8, 9, 10) times around the leg. On rounds 12 and 24, the beginning of the round shifts by 6 and 2 stitches to the left respectively. Work the highlighted stitches after the final repeat.

Work Left Leg Chart until desired length of leg is achieved ending on row 11 or 23 of the chart.

Final Leg Round: If row 11 of the chart is the last row worked, then [p7, k1 tbl] 7(8, 9, 10) times; p4(6, 4, 6); the beginning of the round shifts 4(6, 4, 6) stitches. If row 23 of the chart is the last row worked, then [p1, k1 tbl] 31(32, 39, 40) times; the beginning of the round shifts 6(0, 6, 0) stitches.

Heel Flap

The heel flap is knit back and forth on a total of 25(29, 33, 37) stitches. Turn work so that wrong side is facing.

Row 1 [WS]: sl 1 wyif, p24(28, 32, 36), turn.

Row 2 [RS]: [sl 1 wyib, k1] 12(14, 16, 18) times, k1, turn.

Repeat these 2 rows 12(14, 16, 18) more times for a total of 26(30, 34, 38) rows in the heel flap.

Turn the Heel

Row 1 [WS]: sl 1 wyif, p13(15, 17, 19), p2tog, p1, turn.

Row 2 [RS]: sl 1 wyib, k4, ssk, k1, turn.

Row 3 [WS]: sl 1 wyif, p until 1 stitch before the gap, p2tog, p1, turn

Row 4 [RS]: sl 1 wyib, k until 1 stitch before the gap, ssk, k1, turn

Repeat rows 3 and 4 until all stitches are worked. A total of 15(17, 19, 21) stitches will remain on the heel flap once all stitches are worked.

Gusset

Note: If the leg ended on round 11, start the instep chart on round 13 working the diamond stitches as purls; otherwise, start the instep chart on round 1 working the diamond stitches as k1 tbl. Note that the stitches in columns 1, 2, 22, and 23 of the chart are only worked on the Small and Large sizes.

Gusset Set Up Round: With right side facing, pick up and knit 13(15, 17, 19) stitches along the first side of the heel flap. Work the Left Instep Chart starting at column 1(3, 1, 3) on the next 31(35, 39, 43) repeating the highlighted stitches 2(3, 3, 4) times. Pick up and knit 13(15, 17, 19) along the second side of the heel flap, knit across heel stitches and first set of gusset stitches. This is the new start of round. The needles will hold a total of 72(82, 92, 102) stitches.

Gusset Round 1: Work the next row of the Left Instep Chart starting at column 1(3, 1, 3) on the next 31(35, 39, 43) repeating the highlighted stitches 2(3, 3, 4) times; k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before end of round, k2tog, k1.

Gusset Round 2: Work the next row of the Left Instep Chart starting at column 1(3, 1, 3) on the next 31(35, 39, 43) repeating the highlighted stitches 2(3, 3, 4) times; k until end of round.

Repeat gusset rounds 1 and 2 until 25(29, 33, 37) stitches remain on the bottom of the foot. The needles will hold a total of 56(64, 72, 80) stitches.

Foot

Continue working the pattern as established on the instep and knitting the sole stitches until the foot length is approximately 1.7(1.9, 2.1, 2.4) inches short of desired length ending on row 24 of the Left Instep Chart. If using a lighter weight yarn with a row gauge of 12 rows per inch, work the foot until it is approximately 1.4(1.6, 1.75, 2) inches short of desired length. If additional length is needed, repeat row 24 of the Left Instep Chart as necessary.

Toe

Toe Set Up: K2. This is the start of the round.

Toe Round 1: k1, ssk, k22(26, 30, 34), k2tog, k1; this is the end of the instep; k1, ssk, k22(26, 30, 34), k2tog, k1.

Toe Round 2: k all stitches.

Toe Round 3: k1, ssk, k until 3 stitches before end of instep, k2tog, k1; k1, ssk, k until 3 stitches before end of round, k2tog, k1.

Repeat Toe Rounds 2 and 3 until 28(32, 36, 40) total stitches remain. Repeat Toe Round 3 (decreasing every round) until 16(20, 24, 24) total stitches remain.

Cut the yarn and graft the remaining stitches together using the kitchener stitch. Weave in all ends.

Right Sock

Cuff

Work as for Left Sock.

Leg

Work Right Leg Chart 7(8, 9, 10) times around the leg. On rounds 12 and 24, the beginning of the round shifts by 6 and 2 stitches to the right respectively. Do not work the highlighted stitches on the final repeat of these rounds.

Work Right Leg Chart until desired length of leg is achieved ending on row 11 or 23 of the chart.

Final Leg Round: If row 11 of the chart is the last row worked, then [p1, k1 tbl, p6] 7(8, 9, 10) times; [p1, k1 tbl, p4] 1(0, 1, 0) times; the beginning of the round shifts 6(0, 6, 0) stitches. If row 23 of the chart is the last row worked, then [p1, k1 tbl] 30(35, 37, 43) times; the beginning of the round shifts 4(6, 4, 6) stitches.

Heel Flap

Work as for Left Sock.

Turn the Heel

Work as for Left Sock.

Gusset

Note: If the leg ended on round 11, start the instep chart on round 13 working the diamond stitches as purls; otherwise, start the instep chart on round 1 working the diamond stitches as k1 tbl. Note that the stitches in columns 1, 2, 22, and 23 of the chart are only worked on the Small and Large sizes.

Gusset Set Up Round: With right side facing, pick up and knit 13(15, 17, 19) stitches along the first side of the heel flap. Work the Right Instep Chart starting at column 1(3, 1, 3) on the next 31(35, 39, 43) repeating the highlighted stitches 2(3, 3, 4) times. Pick up and knit 13(15, 17, 19) along the second side of the heel flap, knit across heel stitches and first set of gusset stitches. This is the new start of round. The needles will hold a total of 72(82, 92, 102) stitches.

Gusset Round 1: Work the next row of the Right Instep Chart starting at column 1(3, 1, 3) on the next 31(35, 39, 43) repeating the highlighted stitches 2(3, 3, 4) times; k1, ssk, k to 3 sts before end of round, k2tog, k1.

Gusset Round 2: Work the next row of the Right Instep Chart starting at column 1(3, 1, 3) on the next 31(35, 39, 43) repeating the highlighted stitches 2(3, 3, 4) times; k until end of round.

Repeat gusset rounds 1 and 2 until 25(29, 33, 37) stitches remain on the bottom of the foot. The needles will hold a total of 56(64, 72, 80) stitches.

Foot

Continue working the pattern as established on the instep and knitting the sole stitches until the foot length is approximately 1.7(1.9, 2.1, 2.4) inches short of desired length ending on row 24 of the Left Instep Chart. If using a lighter weight yarn with a row gauge of 12 rows per inch, work the foot until it is approximately 1.4(1.6, 1.75, 2) inches short of desired length. If additional length is needed, repeat row 24 of the Right Instep Chart as necessary.

Toe

Work as for Left Sock.

About the Designer

Rich has a shiny bald head. Despite this fact, he’s never made a hat, but he does make a lot of socks. His designs have been featured on the fibre space site and on Knitty.

Rich lives in Northern Virginia with 4 cats who think that stitch markers solely exist to entertain them.

Rich can be found on ravelry (thatbaldguyknits) and on line at www.thatbaldguyknits.com. He can often be found in person hanging out in the fibre space lounge on Thursday nights.